A universal joint, or "U"-joint as it is commonly known, is used to
transfer drive power between two shafts that do not necessarily line
up. The U-joint is usually used in propellor (prop) shafts connecting
the transfer box to the front and rear differentials.

The
U-joint consists of a cross-shaped piece, which carries needles roller
bearings at the four ends. Bearing cups are then fitted into yokes, and
are attached to the input and output shafts in such a way that the
drive can be taken through an angle.
As with any other component in the Suzuki SJ series, the universal
joints will wear over time. The classic telltale sign of a failing
U-joint is a "clunk" in the driveline when you release the clutch.
Another symptom of the U-joint failing is vibrations from the drive shaft, especially noticeable between speeds of 25 to 35 mph.
To test the U-joints for play, raise the vehicle and support it with
jack stands. Put the gear lever in neutral, and engage the hand brake.
Now grab the driveshaft on either side of the u-joint and twist it
backwards and forwards. If there is any play in a U-joint, it is faulty
and should be replaced. Rust is another sign that the the U-joint is
failing.
The Suzuki SJ is fitted with three propshafts. One connects the gearbox
to the transfer box, and the other two connect the transfer box to the
diffs. Each prop shaft has two U-joints. The SJ410 uses a 25x64
U-joint. This should be the same for a SJ413 and a Samurai.
Apart from the U-joints themselves, you will need the following bits and pieces to do the job:
- Hammer
- Grease gun
- Punch
- Vise
- Two Socket spanners
- Rags
- Latex gloves
- Pliers
- Screwdriver
The first step is to raise the SJ, and support it safely and securely on jack stands.

When
removing any of the prop shafts that have faulty Universal joints, mark
the two mating ends of the propshaft and diff/transfer box with a
scribe, paint, or hammer and chisel. This is to make sure that the
driveshaft is re-installed in the same position, thus eliminating any
unwanted vibration and noise (the driveshaft will still be in it's
original balanced position).
Using snap ring ("circlip") pliers, remove all the circlips holding the U-joints in place in the yokes.

Once
the circlips have been removed, use a vise and socket spanners (or
U-joint press), to press the faulty U-joint out of the yoke housing.
Select a socket spanner with an outside diameter slightly smaller than
the U-joint bearings. Select another socket with an inside diameter
slightly larger than the U-joint bearings. Place the sockets at
opposite bearings in the yoke so that the smaller socket becomes a
bearing pusher and the larger socket becomes a bearing receiver when
the vise jaws come together. Close vise jaws until both the bearings
are free of the yoke, and remove the bearings from the cross or spider.
If bearings will not come all the way out, close the vise until the
bearing in receiver socket protrudes from the yoke as much as possible
without using excessive force. Then remove from the vise and place that
portion of bearing that protrudes from the yoke between the vise jaws.
Tighten the vise to hold the bearing, and drive the yoke off with a
soft hammer.
To remove the opposite bearing from the yoke, replace in the vise with
the pusher socket on the exposed cross journal with the receiver socket
over the bearing cup. Then tighten the vise jaws to press the bearing
back through the yoke into the receiving socket.
Remove the yoke from the drive shaft and again place the protruding
portion of the bearing between the vise jaws. Then tighten the vise to
hold the bearing while driving the yoke off the bearing with a soft
hammer.
Turn the spider (or cross) ¼ turn, and use the same procedure to press the bearings out of the drive shaft.

The
first step to reinstalling the new U-joints is to remove the bearing
caps and needle bearings. Carefully "twist" the cap back and forth as
you remove it and the bearings should stay in place. If not, use wheel
bearing grease to hold them in place.
Insert the bearing race into the yoke, tapping it with a hammer, until
it is flush with the yoke face. When doing this, insert spider into
bearing race to prevent rollers in bearing race from coming out.
Insert the other bearing race on the opposite side into the yoke. Tap
with a hammer until it is flush with the yoke face. Insert the bearing
races on the flange yoke side in the same way.
Place a metal plate on bearing races when tapping them to avoid
damaging the yoke. Once they are in place, re-fit the circlips, making
sure that each circlip is fitted in the groove securely. After
re-assembly, check to ensure that both the shaft and flange yoke move
smoothly before fitting the driveshaft back onto the SJ.
If the replacement U-joint is fitted with a grease fitting, be sure that it faces the driveshaft.
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