Wheel off, rear up on axle stands (bit of a no
brainer this bit) -
Break drum/rear discs off.
As I have disc breaks rear no photo of regular
drum brakes.
Caliper off (2 bolts).
For drum breaks undo the four center
bolts to remove drum (bit of persuasion with a BFH can be applied) - the same
bolts hold the converting plate for the rear brake disc as seen in photo.
Undo the four smaller bolts holding the drum backing plate in place (again, no
pics in-situe but there circled in red in the following pic)
Pop the converting plate for rear disc brake or the brake drum back on the axle
stub and apply a bit of persuasion with a BFH to gently tap the whole half shaft
out (if drum brakes then put the drum on the wrong way round and gently tap it
in an outwards direction to break the seal. Even better, use a slide hammer)-
You can see the four small
bolts still in the backing plate. I you have drum brakes then the small, square
backing plate will be a big moosive round thing with all the shoes and piston in
it
Here be the oil seal - prize it out with a screw driver, spend a few minutes
mucking about with the cool spring on the inside face (possibly try and make
some jewelry for a loved one) and then throw it at the neighbors dog -
Get the small grinder out and
carefully
cut off the locking collar with out gouging chunks from the half shaft and have
a good hack at the
bearing itself. Finish removal
process with a chisel and the BFH -
Rear
wheel bearing
Suzuki part number and bearing marking (not sure
if the Suzuki numbers are universal but anyway) -
This is the new Suzuki bearing with a built in spacer that is good for both
1300 and 1000 axles according to 'the man in the know'.
Also, I use the
original zook bearings because they are cheaper over here (16 quid a pop) and
seem to last me longer than after market ones.

Locking collar part number -
Oil seal part number -
Slide new bearing onto shaft (making sure its the
correct way around) and press on the collar until everything is tight and the bearing has no play in it. If no press is available
you can gently tap the collar and bearing down using the BFH and a length of metal pipe
the same diameter as the collar -
Carefully insert new oil seal into axle housing (metal face out - gentle taps
may be required with a soft hammer, plastic handle of a screw driver, bit of
wood etc. etc.) until it sits flush.
Insert half shaft into the diff and tap
into axle housing until
bearing sits flush with
axle tube and do everything back up again.
Wash, rinse and repeat for
other side.
Forgot to add that for drum brakes need to disconnect the break fluid line from
the piston behind the backing plate (rounding off the nipple in the process) and
bleed the brakes again afterward.
Oh, and the hand brake cable for
Sammis...............
This article was written by Simon Owen, and was
originaly posted on difflock and
can be found HERE
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